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Scott's Painting &
Staining Inc. replaces and installs:
Siding: Concrete / Fiber
Cement, Hardboard, Cedar, Pine
Windows: Aluminum Clad,
Vinyl Clad, Wood
Doors: Fiberglass, Steel,
Wood, Insulated
On This Page:
Building Materials Available
Siding Types and Styles
How to Determine if Your
Siding is Rotting
Manufacturer Lawsuits and Getting
Money Back
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Scott's Painting
& Staining Inc. replaces and installs the following:
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Hardboard Siding (Press-board
material). This is the most common type of siding on
homes in the Omaha area that were built after 1980.
Unfortunately this is also the poorest choice for siding and
they often need to be replaced due to easily rotting after only
a few years. The rotting areas will generally swell
up at the bottom or edges of the siding. You can visually see this if you look at the area
in question in the sunlight and at the correct angle.
When Scotts Painting replaces hardboard siding that overlaps
concrete block, we use an insulating polyethylene film to
keep the moisture in the concrete from seeping into the
backside of the hardboard siding. A house wrap
such as Tyvek is also encouraged as it will offer 3
advantages: Prevents Energy Loss, Protects the
underlying structure from moisture damaged that is caused by
rotting siding, provides and additional barrier between the
bottom edge of the siding and the concrete foundation where
moisture can wick into the back side of hardboard siding. |
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Fiber-cement Siding
(Concrete siding).
This is quickly becoming the siding of choice for both new
homes and when replacing existing or rotting siding or when
completely residing a home.
If you have lap
Hardboard
siding on your home, then most areas can be replaced with
Fiber-cement lap siding. The texture and look will be
almost identical to the Hardboard siding
once it is painted. Therefore only a few pieces may
need to be replaced, not an entire section or side of the
house. |

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Wood Siding
(Real wood, such as cedar or pine). Generally,
newer homes in the Omaha area are NOT using real wood siding
any longer. (Except for trim boards on select homes). Homes that
are 20-30 years old may or may not have wood siding.
Note: generally wood siding will split and the paint
may peel or bubble. With
Hardboard
siding, the paint usually remains in fair condition, but the
siding can be soft or rotted. The rotting areas
will generally swell up. You can visually see this in
even slightly rotted areas if
you look at the area in question in the sunlight and at the
correct angle. |
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Brick Moldings
(Used around windows, doors and garage doors).
Brick moldings are the 2" pieces of wood on the outer edges
(sides and top) of your windows, doors and garage doors. Note: clad
windows and some vinyl windows do not use brick moldings. Brick molding are
also used on the sides and top of some doors and garage doors.
If they are the newer 2" wide brick moldings, then Scott's
Painting & Staining Inc. will use
Vinyl brick molding to replace rotted molding. This is a type of
plastic molding, will not rot and will hold paint much
better than the wood counter part. The old types of
brick moldings are 1-3/4" wide. To replace these, we
must use wood and not vinyl because the brick moldings must
be ripped down to the narrower width and this would destroy
the factory vinyl edge. |
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Decks & Fences
Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. can repair or replace
rotted or loose areas on decks, stairs and fences.
Note: the final finish may reflect a difference in
color due to the age difference of the old versus new wood. |
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Ring Shank Nails
(Used for siding, brick
moldings, windows and doors). We use only the
highest quality Paslode nails when doing
carpentry work. They are hot-dipped galvanized nails,
which usually have ring shanks. The ring shank is an
arrow shaped ring around the nail, which allows it to slide
into the wood, but keeps it from loosening back out over
time. The hot-dipping process offers 10 times more
corrosion resistance than platted nails.
Paslode Hot Dipped Galvanized Nails meet or exceed
ASTM A-153 (The
highest standard of galvanization,
average zinc coverage of 1 oz/ft with none below 0.85oz/ft)
& NER 272
(minimum zinc coverage of 0.28oz.ft).
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Caulking
(Siliconized Acrylic Latex and Polyurethane Sealants). When
carpentry work is performed, Scott's Painting & Staining
Inc. primarily uses OSI QUAD
caulking and uses
Vulkem 116 in limited applications.
OSI QUAD Window, Door & Siding
Sealant is composed of elastomeric polymers and high quality
resins. It offers superior adhesion characteristics
and unmatched elasticity. It yields a tough, rubbery
seal which resists outdoor weather-related elements like
water, oxygen, ozone, heat and UV light. The formula
skins over in a short time to resist dust and dirt.
Vulkem 116 is a
one-part moisture curing, gun-grade polyurethane
sealant.
Vulkem 116 is durable, flexible and offers excellent
performance in moving joints. However Vulkem
116 does not hold paint well and can cause paint
discoloration over time. When repainting
a home, a high-grade Siliconized Acrylic Latex caulking is
used because this type of caulk performs better in smaller
span joints.

 
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Lap (horizontal) siding. Each strip
is an individual piece, usually 8" wide with about 6-1/2"
showing. (Available in
Hardboard, Fiber-cement and Wood). The look of the
Hardboard siding is identical to that of the
Fiber-cement
siding.

Vertical panel siding, available in 4x8
and 4x9 foot sizes. This type of siding comes with
grooves every 4", 8" or 12".
(Available in Hardboard, Fiber-cement and Wood).
The only size available in
Fiber-cement siding is with 8" grooves. |
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Lap (horizontal) siding. Each piece
of siding is usually 2-4 strips. This type of siding
usually has about a 1" groove at the top of each strip.
The size of each strip can be from 2" to 5".
(Available in Hardboard and Fiber-cement). This
type of siding is available in
Fiber-cement siding but it is special order and it
will not match any existing Hardboard
siding. This means that you must replace an entire
section of the house if you wanted to switch from
Hardboard
to Fiber-cement siding.

Vertical panel siding, with a Stucco
finish. (Available in Hardboard
and Fiber-cement). The look of the
Hardboard
siding is almost identical to that of the
Fiber-cement siding, so the
Fiber-cement siding may be patched into just the rotted
areas. |
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Fiber-cement Siding If you are
lucky enough to have
Fiber-cement siding then you do not need to read this
because
your
Fiber-cement siding will not be rotting! |
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Hardboard Siding
(Press-board material). This method will apply
to any type of Hardboard
siding, whether it is 4x8 vertical siding or horizontal lap
siding. Look down the length of the house for any
"bubbled" or "swollen" looking surfaces.
You can usually see the damage if you look at the area in
question in the sunlight and at the correct angle. A
bit of a shadow may be created. Also inspecting the
house right after a long wet rainy period will assist in
seeing the rotted areas because the moisture can cause the
siding to temporarily swell further. It is easier to see
these areas with a satin paint then with a flat paint.
This also means that if your house originally had a flat
finish, after Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. repaints it
in a satin finish (our standard finish, because it is more
durable for Hardboard
siding), rotting or swelled areas that were not noticeable prior to repainting
may become visible. The following is a list of
common problem areas:
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With vertical
siding, the bottom of the siding is generally the
first part to rot. In addition, the siding closest
to the ground will most likely be the first to rot.
Concrete foundations provide a source of moisture.
The siding will suck up the moisture like a sponge
from the backside of the
Hardboard. Normally when
Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. repairs these areas
a polyethylene film is used between the areas where
the Hardboard
comes in contact with any concrete block. |
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With lap
siding, the bottom is usually the first to rot but
this may mean the bottom of each strip. Each
piece can be anywhere from 6" to 24" apart. |
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Around the
lower side and bottoms of
windows. The drip cap (the
metal piece that should be above the
window) can either be missing, too short or
not properly caulked. In any of these cases,
water will seep in around the edge of the
window
and run down the backside of the siding. If
this happens, the siding can actually rot from the
inside out. In these cases, the
window
may be rotted as well, or at least the
brick molding. The
brick moldings
can be replaced independently from the
windows. |
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Around the
end of a gutter. If the metal flashing from
the roof is too short or bent incorrectly, water may
leak in behind the siding just as it could with the
windows. |
If you find any of these "swollen" areas and you
can reach them, try to gently press on the area with your
fingers. If the wood is badly rotted, it could be soft
to the touch, especially after a hard rain.
Do not press too hard or you could actually puncture
the wood if it's badly rotted. If the wood has time to
dry out, it may not be soft to the touch but it could still
be damaged. It will remain "swollen" though.
Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. specializes in all types of
siding replacement, including
concrete siding replacement. When any siding is
replaced, the new siding is normally sealed with a
high-grade polyurethane sealant called
Vulkem 116. For
more information about rotted siding or peeling paint check
out our painting tips page. |
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Wood Siding
(Real wood, such as cedar or pine).
Wood siding generally will last much longer than
Hardboard
siding. While
Hardboard
siding may begin to rot without noticeable water problems,
this is usually not the case with wood
siding. Most of the time wood
siding is cedar, which is naturally rot resistant.
Therefore if it is rotting there is usually a moderate water
problem. The rotted area will be soft and spongy.
If the
wood is allowed to dry out for a
considerable length of time it may not be spongy or it could
be dry rot or termites. Dry rot is a fungus that
causes wood to crumble. If you
press on an area like this, the wood
may disintegrate. |
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Windows & Doors (This only applies
to wood
windows and NOT clad windows). As
mentioned above, siding around a window or door that has not
been properly installed or sealed may begin to rot.
Usually, when this happens, the window/door may be rotted
too. Keep in mind that if the window/door is rotted,
the siding around the window/door may not be rotted.
The first part that usually rots is the
brick molding. This is the 2", outer strip of
wood, which is on the sides and the top of the window or
door. In addition, the bottom of the window/door, (the
sill) may be rotted too. If the rotted window/door is
detected early enough, it can be repaired. Scott's
Painting & Staining Inc. can replace the rotted
brick moldings. When this is done, a new
brick molding, is used and the window/door is sealed
with a high-grade sealant. If the inner part of
the window/door is rotted, the window or door itself or part
of the frame may need to be replaced. Scott's Painting
& Staining Inc. can recommend the best solution during an
estimate. |
Let Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. become your
Omaha Painting and Siding Contractor of Choice! |
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The links
below have information about manufacturer's lawsuits and how to get
reimbursed for rotted siding. They will also help you
determine the manufacturer of your siding.

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