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Scott's Painting
& Staining Inc. can replace any of the following:
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Hardboard Siding
(Press-board material). This is the most common type of siding that we
replace due to the fact that it can easily rot after only a few years.
The rotting areas will generally swell up. You can
visually see this if you look at the area in question in the
sunlight and at the correct angle. When
Scotts Painting replaces hardboard siding that overlaps
concrete block, we use an insulating polyethylene film
to keep the moisture in the concrete from seeping into the
backside of the hardboard siding.
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Fiber-cement
Siding (Concrete
siding). This is
quickly becoming the siding of choice for both new homes and when
replacing existing or rotting siding. If you have lap
Hardboard
siding on your home, then any areas can be replaced with
Fiber-cement lap siding. The texture and look will be
identical to the Hardboard siding once it is painted.
Therefore
only a few pieces may need to be replaced, not an entire
section or side of the house. |
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Wood Siding
(Real wood, such as cedar or pine). Generally, newer
homes in the Omaha area are NOT using real wood siding any
longer. (Except for trim boards). Homes that are
20-30 years old may or may not have wood siding.
Note: generally wood siding will split and the paint may
peel or bubble. With Hardboard
siding, the paint usually
remains in fair condition, but the siding could be soft or
rotting. The rotting areas will generally swell
up. You can visually see this if you look at the area in
question in the sunlight and at the correct angle. |
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Brick
Moldings
(Used around windows, doors and garage
doors). Brick moldings are the 2" pieces of wood on
the outer edges (sides and top) of your windows.
Note: clad windows do not use brick
moldings. Brick molding are also used on the sides and
top of
doors and garage doors. If they are the
newer 2" wide brick moldings, then Scott's Painting &
Staining Inc. will use either a wood or Polystyrene brick
molding. This is a type of plastic molding,
will not rot and will hold paint much better than the wood
counter part. The old types of brick moldings
are 1-3/4" wide. To replace these, we must use wood
and not polystyrene. |
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Decks
& Fences
Scott's Painting
& Staining Inc. can repair or replace rotted or loose
areas on decks, stairs and fences. Note: the final
finish may reflect a difference in color due to the age difference
of the old and new wood. |
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Ring Shank Nails
(Used for siding, brick moldings,
windows and doors). We use only the highest quality
Paslode nails when doing any type of carpentry work. They
are hot-dipped galvanized nails, which usually have ring
shanks. The ring shank is an arrow shaped ring around the
nail, which allows it to slide into the wood, but keeps it from
loosening back out over time. The hot-dipping
process offers 10 times more corrosion resistance than platted
nails. Paslode Hot Dipped Galvanized Nails
meet or exceed ASTM
A-153 (The
highest standard of galvanization, average
zinc coverage of 1 oz/ft with none below 0.85oz/ft)
& NER 272
(minimum zinc coverage of 0.28oz.ft).
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Caulking
(Vulkem & Siliconized Acrylic Latex). When
carpentry work is performed, Scott's Painting & Staining
Inc. primarily uses Vulkem 116
caulking on these areas. When painting, a high-grade
Siliconized Acrylic Latex caulking is used. Vulkem 116 is a
one-part moisture curing, gun-grade polyurethane sealant.
Vulkem 116 is durable, flexible and offers excellent
performance in moving joints. Vulkem 116 does not require
a primer on most construction materials. Vulkem 116 is an excellent
general-purpose sealant designed for use in precast masonry, window
frame perimeters and similar types of
construction joints. Vulkem 116 is suitable for continual
immersion in water. Vulkem 116 is designed for exterior
and interior use.  
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Lap (horizontal) siding. Each strip
is an individual piece, usually 8" wide with about
6-1/2" showing. (Available in
Hardboard, Fiber-cement and Wood). The look of
the Hardboard siding is identical to that of the
Fiber-cement
siding.

Vertical panel siding, available in 4x8
and 4x9 foot sizes. This type of siding comes with
grooves every 4", 8" or 12". (Available
in Hardboard, Fiber-cement and Wood). The only
size available in Fiber-cement siding is
with 8" grooves. |
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Lap (horizontal) siding. Each piece
of siding is usually 2-4 strips. This type of siding
usually has about a 1" groove at the top of each
strip. The size of each strip can be from 2" to
5". (Available in Hardboard
and Fiber-cement). This type of siding is
available in Fiber-cement siding but it
is special order and it will not match any existing Hardboard
siding. This means that you must replace an entire
section of the
house if you wanted to switch from Hardboard
to Fiber-cement siding.

Vertical panel siding, with a Stucco
finish. (Available in Hardboard
and Fiber-cement). The look of the Hardboard
siding is almost identical to that of the Fiber-cement siding,
so the Fiber-cement siding may be patched into just the rotted
areas. |
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Fiber-cement
Siding If you are lucky enough to have
Fiber-cement siding then you do not need to read this because
Fiber-cement siding does not rot! |
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Hardboard
Siding (Press-board material). This method will apply to
any type of Hardboard
siding, whether it is 4x8 vertical siding
or horizontal lap siding. Look down the length of the
house for any "bubbled" or "swollen" looking
surfaces. You can
usually see the damage if you look at the area in
question in the sunlight and at the correct angle. A bit
of a shadow may be created. It is easier to see these
areas with a satin paint then with a flat paint. This
also means that if your house originally had a flat finish,
after Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. repaints it in a
satin finish (our standard finish, because it is more
durable), areas that were not noticeable prior to repainting
may become visible. The following is a list of
common problem areas:
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With vertical siding, the bottom of the siding is
generally the first part to rot. In addition, the siding
closest to the ground will most likely be the first to
rot. Concrete foundations provide a source of moisture. The
siding will suck up the moisture like a sponge from the
backside of the Hardboard.
Normally when Scott's Painting & Staining Inc.
repairs these areas a polyethylene film is used between
the areas where the Hardboard
comes in contact with any
concrete block. |
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With lap siding, the bottom is usually the first to rot
but this may mean the bottom of each strip. Each piece
can be anywhere from 6" to 24" apart. |
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Around the lower side and bottoms of
windows. The drip cap (the metal piece that should
be above the window) can either be missing, too short or
not properly caulked. In any of these cases, water will
seep in around the edge of the window
and run down the
backside of the siding. If this happens, the siding can
actually rot from the inside out. In these cases, the window
may be rotted as well, or at least the brick
molding. The brick moldings
can be replaced independently from the windows. |
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Around the end of a gutter. If the metal flashing from
the roof is too short or bent incorrectly, water may leak in behind the siding just as it could with the
windows. |
If you find any of these "swollen"
areas and you can reach them, try to gently press on the
area with your fingers. If the wood is badly rotted, it
could be soft to the touch, especially after a hard rain. Do not press too
hard or you could actually puncture the wood if it's badly rotted. If the wood has
time to dry out, it
may not be soft to the touch but it could still be damaged. It
will remain "swollen" though.
Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. specializes in all types
of siding replacement, including concrete siding replacement. When any siding is replaced, the
new siding is normally sealed with a high-grade
polyurethane sealant called Vulkem
116. For more information about
rotted siding or peeling paint check out our painting
tips page. |
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Wood Siding
(Real wood, such as cedar or pine). Wood siding
generally will last much longer than Hardboard
siding.
While Hardboard
siding may begin to rot without noticeable
water problems, this is usually not the case with wood
siding. Most of the time wood siding is cedar, which is
naturally rot resistant. Therefore if it is rotting
there is usually a moderate water problem. The rotted area will be soft and spongy. If the
wood is
allowed to dry out for a considerable length of time it may
not be spongy or it could be dry rot or termites. Dry
rot is a fungus that causes wood to crumble. If you
press on an area like this, the wood may disintegrate. |
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Windows
& Doors (This only applies to wood
windows and NOT clad
windows). As mentioned above, siding
around a window or door that has not been properly installed or
sealed may begin to rot. Usually, when this happens, the
window/door may be rotted too. Keep in mind that if the
window/door is rotted,
the
siding around the
window/door may not be rotted. The first part that usually rots
is the brick molding. This is the
2", outer strip of wood, which is on the sides and the
top of the window or door. In addition, the bottom of the
window/door, (the sill) may be rotted too. If the rotted
window/door is detected early enough, it can be repaired. Scott's
Painting & Staining Inc. can replace the rotted brick
moldings. When this is done, a new
brick molding, is used and the
window/door is sealed with a high-grade
sealant. If the inner part of the
window/door is rotted, the
window or door itself or part of the frame may need to be
replaced. Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. can recommend the best solution during an estimate. |
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The
links below have information about manufacturer's lawsuits and
how to get reimbursed for rotted siding. They will also help you determine
the manufacturer of your siding.

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