Siding Replacement
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Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. replaces and installs:

Siding:  Concrete / Fiber Cement, Hardboard, Cedar, Pine

Windows:  Aluminum Clad, Vinyl Clad, Wood

Doors:  Fiberglass, Steel, Wood, Insulated

On This Page:
Building Materials Available
Siding Types and Styles
How to Determine if Your Siding is Rotting
Manufacturer Lawsuits and Getting Money Back

Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. replaces and installs the following:

Hardboard Siding   (Press-board material).  This is the most common type of siding on homes in the Omaha area that were built after 1980.  Unfortunately this is also the poorest choice for siding and they often need to be replaced due to easily rotting after only a few years.  The rotting areas will generally swell up at the bottom or edges of the siding.  You can visually see this if you look at the area in question in the sunlight and at the correct angle.  When Scotts Painting replaces hardboard siding that overlaps concrete block, we use an insulating polyethylene film to keep the moisture in the concrete from seeping into the backside of the hardboard siding.  A house wrap such as Tyvek is also encouraged as it will offer 3 advantages:

                     - Prevents Energy Loss

                     - Protects the underlying structure from moisture damaged that is caused by rotting siding

                     - Provides and additional barrier between the bottom edge of the siding and the concrete foundation where moisture can wick into the back side of hardboard siding.


Fiber-cement Siding   (Concrete siding).  This is quickly becoming the siding of choice for both new homes and when replacing existing or rotting siding or when completely residing a home.  If you have lap Hardboard siding on your home, then most areas can be replaced with Fiber-cement lap siding.  The texture and look will be almost identical to the Hardboard siding once it is painted.  Therefore only a few pieces may need to be replaced, not an entire section or side of the house.



Wood Siding   (Real wood, such as cedar or pine).  Generally, newer homes in the Omaha area are NOT using real wood siding any longer.  (Except for trim boards on select homes).  Homes that are 20-30 years old may or may not have wood siding.  Note:  generally wood siding will split and the paint may peel or bubble.  With Hardboard siding, the paint usually remains in fair condition, but the siding can be soft or rotted.  The rotting areas will generally swell up.  You can visually see this in even slightly rotted areas if you look at the area in question in the sunlight and at the correct angle.


Brick Moldings   (Used around windows, doors and garage doors).  Brick moldings are the 2" pieces of wood on the outer edges (sides and top) of your windows, doors and garage doors.  Note:  clad windows and some vinyl windows do not use brick moldings.  Brick molding are also used on the sides and top of some doors and garage doors.  If they are the newer 2" wide brick moldings, then Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. will use Vinyl brick molding to replace rotted molding.  This is a type of plastic molding, will not rot and will hold paint much better than the wood counter part.


Decks & Fences   Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. can repair or replace rotted or loose areas on decks, stairs and fences.  Note:  the final finish may reflect a difference in color due to the age difference of the old versus new wood.


Ring Shank Nails   (Can be used for siding, brick moldings, windows and doors).  We use only the highest quality nails when doing carpentry work.  They are hot-dipped galvanized nails, which usually have ring shanks.  The ring shank is an arrow shaped ring around the nail, which allows it to slide into the wood, but keeps it from loosening back out over time.  The hot-dipping process offers 10 times more corrosion resistance than platted nails.  Paslode Hot Dipped Galvanized Nails meet or exceed ASTM A-153 (The highest standard of galvanization, average zinc coverage of 1 oz/ft with none below 0.85oz/ft) & NER 272 (minimum zinc coverage of 0.28oz.ft).

Percent of Red Rust After 1,108 Hours Prohesion     Salt Spray Test to 15% Rust Nail Shanks


Caulking   (Siliconized Acrylic Latex and Polyurethane Sealants).  When carpentry work is performed, Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. primarily uses OSI QUAD caulking and uses Vulkem 116 in limited applicationsOSI QUAD Window, Door & Siding Sealant is composed of elastomeric polymers and high quality resins.  It offers superior adhesion characteristics and unmatched elasticity.  It yields a tough, rubbery seal which resists outdoor weather-related elements like water, oxygen, ozone, heat and UV light.  The formula skins over in a short time to resist dust and dirt.  Vulkem 116 is a one-part moisture curing, gun-grade polyurethane sealant.  Vulkem 116 is durable, flexible and offers excellent performance in moving joints.  However Vulkem 116 does not hold paint well and can cause paint discoloration over time.  When repainting a home, a high-grade Siliconized Acrylic Latex caulking is used because this type of caulk performs better in smaller span joints.

OSI QUAD VOC Window, Door & Siding Sealant

Vulkem 116

DAP ALEX PLUS Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone




8" Lap Siding

Lap (horizontal) siding.  Each strip is an individual piece, usually 8" wide with about 6-1/2" showing.  (Available in Hardboard, Fiber-cement and Wood).  The look of the Hardboard siding is identical to that of the Fiber-cement siding.


Vertical Siding

Vertical panel siding, available in 4x8 and 4x9 foot sizes.  This type of siding comes with grooves every 4", 8" or 12".  (Available in Hardboard, Fiber-cement and Wood).  The only size available in Fiber-cement siding is with 8" grooves.

Double or Triple Lap Siding

Lap (horizontal) siding.  Each piece of siding is usually 2-4 strips.  This type of siding usually has about a 1" groove at the top of each strip.  The size of each strip can be from 2" to 5".  (Available in Hardboard and Fiber-cement).  This type of siding is available in Fiber-cement siding but it is special order and it will not match any existing Hardboard siding.  This means that you must replace an entire section of the house if you wanted to switch from Hardboard to Fiber-cement siding.


Stucco Siding

Vertical panel siding, with a Stucco finish.  (Available in Hardboard and Fiber-cement).  The look of the Hardboard siding is almost identical to that of the Fiber-cement siding, so the Fiber-cement siding may be patched into just the rotted areas.


Fiber-cement Siding   If you are lucky enough to have Fiber-cement siding then you do not need to read this because your Fiber-cement siding will not be rotting!

Hardboard Siding   (Press-board material).  This method will apply to any type of Hardboard siding, whether it is 4x8 vertical siding or horizontal lap siding.  Look down the length of the house for any "bubbled" or "swollen" looking surfaces.  You can usually see the damage if you look at the area in question in the sunlight and at the correct angle.  A bit of a shadow may be created.  Also inspecting the house right after a long wet rainy period will assist in seeing the rotted areas because the moisture can cause the siding to temporarily swell further.  It is easier to see these areas with a satin paint then with a flat paint.  This also means that if your house originally had a flat finish, after Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. repaints it in a satin finish (our standard finish, because it is more durable for Hardboard siding), rotting or swelled areas that were not noticeable prior to repainting may become visible.  The following is a list of common problem areas:

With vertical siding, the bottom of the siding is generally the first part to rot. In addition, the siding closest to the ground will most likely be the first to rot.  Concrete foundations provide a source of moisture.  The siding will suck up the moisture like a sponge against the backside of the Hardboard.  When Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. repairs these areas a polyethylene film is used between the areas where the Hardboard comes in contact with any concrete block.
With lap siding, the bottom is usually the first to rot but this may mean the bottom of each strip.  Each piece can be anywhere from 6" to 24" apart.
Around the lower side and bottoms of windows.  The drip cap (the metal piece that should be above the window) can either be missing, too short or not properly caulked.  In any of these cases, water will seep in around the edge of the window and run down the backside of the siding.  If this happens, the siding can actually rot from the inside out.  In these cases, the window may be rotted as well, or at least the brick molding.  The brick moldings can be replaced independently from the windows.
Around the end of a gutter.  If the metal flashing from the roof is too short or bent incorrectly, water may leak in behind the siding just as it could with the windows.

If you find any of these "swollen" areas and you can reach them, try to gently press on the area with your fingers.  If the wood is badly rotted, it could be soft to the touch, especially after a hard rain.  Do not press too hard or you could actually puncture the wood if it's badly rotted.  If the wood has time to dry out, it may not be soft to the touch but it could still be damaged.  It will remain "swollen" though.  Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. specializes in all types of siding replacement, including concrete siding replacement.  When any siding is replaced, the new siding is normally sealed with a high-grade polyurethane sealant called OSI Quad sealant.  For more information about rotted siding or peeling paint check out our painting tips page.  

Wood Siding   (Real wood, such as cedar or pine).  Wood siding generally will last much longer than Hardboard siding.  While Hardboard siding may begin to rot without noticeable water problems, this is usually not the case with wood siding.  Most of the time wood siding is cedar, which is naturally rot resistant.  Therefore if it is rotting there is usually a moderate water problem.  The rotted area will be soft and spongy.  If the wood is allowed to dry out for a considerable length of time it may not be spongy or it could be dry rot or termites.  Dry rot is a fungus that causes wood to crumble.  If you press on an area like this, the wood may disintegrate.

Windows & Doors   (This only applies to wood windows and NOT clad windows).  As mentioned above, siding around a window or door that has not been properly installed or sealed may begin to rot.  Usually, when this happens, the window/door may be rotted too.  Keep in mind that if the window/door is rotted, the siding around the window/door may not be rotted.  The first part that usually rots is the brick molding.  This is the 2", outer strip of wood, which is on the sides and the top of the window or door.  In addition, the bottom of the window/door, (the sill) may be rotted too.  If the rotted window/door is detected early enough, it can be repaired.  Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. can replace the rotted brick moldings.  When this is done, a new brick molding, is used and the window/door is sealed with a high-grade  sealant.  If the inner part of the window/door is rotted, the window or door itself or part of the frame may need to be replaced.  Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. can recommend the best solution during an estimate.

Let Scott's Painting & Staining Inc. become your Omaha Painting and Siding Contractor of Choice!


The links below have information about manufacturer's lawsuits and how to get reimbursed for rotted siding.  They will also help you determine the manufacturer of your siding.